Having lived my life at sea level, what would compel me to climb Japan's highest and most revered mountain?
I'm "delightfully delusional"
As a sacred site, a source of inspiration, and the symbol of Japan, Mount Fuji has welcomed over 300,000 visitors per year and was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although it's common to hear of JETs attempting to climb this "active" volcano, I planned to climb unassisted, unescorted, unaccompanied, companionless and, in other words, alone. All my coworkers thought I was crazy. The look on their faces, as they spat their tea after they heard my plans, made me wonder if I was crazy. The one person who I thought would worry to death, my mother, said I could climb Mount Fuji alone because she knew I was crazy.
Do you even squat?
The plan was to climb Mount Fuji during the morning, and stay most of the evening and part of the night at a mountain hut and then continue to the summit and watch the sunrise. Due to limited availability, I reserved the mountain hut before I purchased the flight. Then, I reserved a hostel near Shinjuku and a round-trip bus ticket to Mount Fuji's 5th Station. After the logistics, I devised a strict workout regiment, which consisted of daily 5ks with a squat challenge in order to build up my endurance.
#FaithinHumanityRestored
In late July, I flew to Tokyo a day before my expected climb and toured the city. The next day, I awoke at the ungodly hours of the morning and made my way to the bus terminal, stopping briefly at a combini. The bus terminal was packed with Mount Fuji climbers who were 'turnt' in their professional hiking gear, while I stood there in my Uniqlo cargo pants and shirt from Forever 21 - fashionable, but probably not efficient. As I took my seat on the bus, I was in disbelief that I was on my way to Mount Fuji. My excitement eventually waned, and I napped for the remainder of the trip. When I arrived at the 5th station and exited the bus, I almost collided with another Westerner who carried several wooden walking/stamping sticks. He asked if I needed one but when I inquired about the price, he told me it was free and to "have a nice day."
Mount Fuji 5th Station was Disney-esque with its crowded stores that sold souvenirs and hiking gear. I quickly purchased a kawaii Mount Fuji towel and a can of oxygen, just in case, and made my way to the Yoshida Trail. I started to climb around 9:30am and watched the exhausted faces of the people who passed me in order to descend. I wondered if I too would look like that during my descent, but I pushed the thoughts away as I began the first portion of the climb. I slowly ascended and silently thanked the 5k/squat gods for the strength in my legs.
No love for that bug
The Yoshida Trail was recommended for first-time climbers due to its abundance in huts and first-aid stations. The Yoshida Trail zigzagged up the mountain and, although the trail was mostly gravel, there were parts of the trail that resembled rock climbing. Since I was climbing on a Thursday, the hordes of climbers I was forewarned about were absent; so I enjoyed the perfect weather and peace while I climbed at my own pace. For the majority of the trip, I put away my iPod and just listened to the lava rocks crunch underneath my feet. My serendipity was cut short around the 6th station because I was harassed by a bug. I couldn't tell if it was a fly or a bee, but it was attracted to my pink iPhone case (most likely a bee). It annoyingly buzzed around me for four frickin' hours! It didn't end well for the bee though, because I stomped it to death around the 8th station.
From 1 to Mordor, how hot was it?
After seven hours of climbing, I reached the mountain hut where I felt the dull pain of an oncoming headache. After check-in, a staff member showed me to the sleeping quarters. Actually, the "bedroom" was one large room full of bunk beds. The room was divided by gender, and I was expected to sleep, shoulder to shoulder, in between two elderly Japanese women. Although I was unhappy about the sleeping arrangements, I quickly slathered Vicks Vapor Rub on my forehead and laid down to rest.
A couple hours later I was called to dinner, but my headache had worsened. Shortly after dinner, the staff announced that they would shut off the lights until 2am. I settled into the genie-lamp-sized bed once more, but this time I was accompanied by the two Japanese women. The combined body heat due to the close proximity felt like Mordor, and I felt nauseous (nauseated; for you grammar nazis). I grabbed my can of oxygen and moved into the cool air of the main room. As I inhaled pure oxygen, I noticed that there were a few empty futons. I sneaked into bed and continued to inhale oxygen until a staff member approached and quietly asked me if I was ok. The futons were reserved for late comers, but I explained that I felt ill. He asked me to wait while he set up a separate futon inside the main room where I could sleep in peace. I slept until 2am and awoke without a migraine.
Land of the Rising Sun, indeed
The night portion of the climb meant that I needed to don warm clothes and a headlamp. I continued up the mountain until I saw what looked like two large lion-dog statues in front of a torii gate. Was this the end? I couldn't tell, but I kept walking until I saw another hut that served ramen. I continued past the gate and up the hill to look around. I scared myself half to death when I looked down into Mount Fuji's crater. I frickin' made it!
I had about 45 minutes until sunrise, so I doubled back to the hut in order to keep warm and eat breakfast. The summit was packed with climbers facing the east and at around 4:30am I set up my camera and waited. And waited. And waited. And waited. It felt like forever. In my mind, I saw perfect image of the sun peaking from behind the horizon - like a backwards sunset - but what I didn't expect was a tiny red ball emerging from a sea of clouds.
The trek down the mountain was the worst part. My boots had no traction and I slid the entire way down. My thighs were overworked from trying to keep balance but luckily I never fell. Once I reached the 5th station, I waited for the bus to my hotel, where I showered, dressed and left to the Ghibli Museum. Yep, after climbing up and down Mt. Fuji, I visited the Ghibli Museum. #NoRagrets ;)
If you're wondering, the next day I had the hardest time walking down stairs. My thighs were so sore. Overall, it was a great experience. Would I do it again? With the weather I had before, sure!
TL;DR? Check out the video!
Be sure to turn on the subtitles, because I was uncharacteristically soft spoken!
People have been surprised to hear that I never climbed Fuji when I was in J-Land, and part of me wishes I had. But almost all the stories I've read/heard talk about how hot/cold/hard to breathe it was, and just doesn't sound like a very fun trip. Nice to be able to say you've done it, though, haha.
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